Sometimes this place feels magical, other times it makes you want to choke. But such is, at least I’m told, the life of a PCV anywhere. It has been an exciting time here, many things happening.

First there was a great birthday party for my friend Sarah. A few others came up and helped me prepare a feast. It always seems that when there is a party and food involved, we make way too much; fortunate for us to be able to do so. It was a terrific night.

Then just yesterday all the leaves fell from the trees. Sure the weather had gotten cold a few weeks ago, but the full force of autumn hadn’t yet arrived. Yesterday as I walked the familiar routes around town, I heard that distinctive swish of leaves being raked and kicked about underfoot. This morning the leaves were falling so rapidly from one tree as I walked under it that I glanced up to make sure nobody was shaking the branches.

Unfortunately, the crisp autumnal air becomes choked with smoke nearly every afternoon now. In addition to the regular garbage burnings, I suppose leaves are being added to the mix. It’s a pity, but makes for some great vivid sunsets.

My program manager swung by today on a routine checkup of all teachers in the area. We chatted for a while and then met up with my counterpart and some of the other teachers. It all went superbly! My PM is thrilled that I have been able to turn things around from a rather awkward situation last year to a smoothly functioning one this year. My counterpart was particularly pleasant and all the other teachers made sure to say that they were pleased with my work. It really felt good, especially coming from a place where praise is often non-existent.

I was also able to show off a new project that is currently in the works at the school. Peace Corps has a program called SPA (Small Projects Assistance.) Basically, Peace Corps is allotted a certain budget by USAID every year. It is up to Peace Corps to administer these funds. All volunteers are encouraged to submit project proposals. The projects can be about anything really, from special seminars to a rock climbing wall. Last year I wasn’t ready to get involved with this because I knew it was a lot of effort and frankly, wasn’t really feeling great about either of my schools. But the opportunity arose this summer when I heard that the old phonetics lab was getting a little work done. This room, (the language lab,) had not been updated since the fall of Communism; the floor was peeling off, chairs were uneven and desktops were separated from their supports. I knew that this room was the perfect one for a SPA but wanted to see some investment by the school before beginning the process. Anyway, this summer my counterpart mentioned that the school was going to repaint the walls and install a new floor in the room. Though this may sound minor, remember that funds here are scarce to non-existent, especially for capital improvements. When I heard of this, I began work on a SPA grant.

As a birthday surprise (the committee met to discuss proposals on the 26th,) I was notified that the grant was approved and would be fully funded. Of course we’ve had to wait over a month for the funds to wind their way from Washington to Bucharest, but yesterday I got the green light. We are going to purchase new desks and chairs for the room, and a large electric projection screen. The room has already been painted and re-floored (the school held its end of the bargain,) and looks 100X better. Now that the aesthetic has been improved, the furniture will be upgraded, and an important investment will be made regarding technology. Given that the room already has a DVD player and TV, I hope that the screen can be used for presentations and movies in conjunction with an existing LCD projector.

All this makes me feel like I am doing something right. Not that I tend to be hard on myself or anything, but working in a foreign country can be extremely frustrating and unsatisfying at times (just check out the many reality TV shows about it.) I want to see this money spent wisely and I want to see these new investments utilized and taken care of. Although the school is still light years behind those in Western Europe, I don’t see why we can’t have at least one modern room!

I am crossing my fingers that the American populace wakes up by Nov 7th and sends a clear message to these Republican thugs who have been ruining our country for the past decade. It is time to move on to a more progressive and positive agenda, one which doesn’t rely on fear tactics and gay bashing. Working abroad has taught me that establishing a connection and genuine trust takes time and effort. As Americans we certainly have the skills to do this, we just need a little boost in the will department. I think that as my generation matures and enters the social and political scene in force, we will see a return to values of respect, honesty and fair play. I am tired of being guarded in my optimism. This time I feel it without any hesitation.

Two weeks to vacation. Counterpart in a pissy mood today – “oh how hard we work, how difficult our job… Some days it is not so bad, in fact some days we approach friendliness. Other days, and more often, it is the bitterness. So much bitterness; that of lost empire and glory, that of disrespect, that of constantly just getting by. In some ways I sympathize. After all, our teachers are some of our most valuable assets; disrespect them and disrespect the future. But other times the sympathy doesn’t come. Instead one views their cowing toward authority and thinks, “well, I guess this is what you get when you refuse to speak up.” And though some may say that this is just a hangover from prior days, I would argue that it is more. Obsequiousness now breads obsequiousness tomorrow; though the students know better, they have no idea how to make it so. It is a tragic cycle in which only the most corrupt and cynical seem to survive, woe be the idealist of any stripe. But then again, this is not my land, these are not my people. But one leaves with the troubling thought that the process of corruption is no longer mandated from upon high, rather chosen consciously as a means of survival. Which is more terrifying?